Nov 111 min read

The Philippines - Can They Get Any More Beautiful? PART 3

Updated: Nov 2

Part 3 of my 2-month Philippines Trip (Link To PART 1 & PART 2 )

Apo Island

Don't miss this place if you love diving and snorkeling, we were told. And stay there for two nights. Not long enough, I tell you.

Thank goodness the jeepney driver knew exactly where to let us off to catch the boat over to Apo Island, 'cause our 62-year-old eyes would have totally missed the teeny faded sign to Apo Island between Zamboanguita and Dauin that was Malatapay, the jumping off point from Negros Island (see Part 2). A short walk from the highway to the sea took us to what seemed to be a chaotic, confusing process, but the woman shouting here and there to tourists and to boat captains knew exactly what she was doing, and within an hour, had us on a boat crossing the broiling and roiling sea.

On to white sand we pulled an hour later, our jaws dropping at the lush green hillsides that sloped up from the tiny community along their base. To our delight, against the hill, was our hotel, the Liberty Lodge, just a few steps away (no humping our packs for miles looking for it). And right below it, a dive shop. "I'll be back soon!" I called silently as we passed it.

And I was. Not two hours later, I was off diving. Not since the Great Barrier Reef I'd earned my certificate at 30 years ago have I seen such underwater beauty, massive violet and tangerine corals, and turtles everywhere, one size of a big man! There were lobsters, sea snakes the thickness of my leg, sea cucumbers and fish in every colour. Wowza!

And those turtles and spectacular coral were there when we snorkled from the beach later.

view looking at lush hill and ocean at Apo Island

Apo was idyllic. We hiked up steep stairs and pathways to the top of the island (tip: don't wear flip-flops when you do)

And we wandered through the village's narrow streets, returning hello's to curious, friendly kids and venturing into conversations with smiling locals when invited to.

A man and wife, his sisters and aunt shared a bit of what life was like for them on this teeny island. "How many people live here, I asked him, thinking he'd say 100, 200. "Three thousand," he said to my astonishment. Then, with a wink to his wife, he added "With the power turning off at 10 pm every night here, there's not much to do but make babies," We all laugh.

Our too-short visit over, we said goodbye to our rustic but perfectly-comfortable bamboo room with its balcony overlooking the sea, and sadly hopped on to the Cocogrove tour boat that would take us to Siquijor.

view of ocean and boats from balcony at Liberty Lodge, Apo Island

Siquijor Island

As per usual, our hotel, the Gabayan Riviera, was far from town - a 45-minute, 700p ($17) tricycle ride (which, as I'm sure you know me by now, hurt my frugal heart). We were thrilled with the hotel, however: gorgeous grounds looking over the sea, quiet, a great restaurant, and an immaculately clean room with a huge bed and expensive sheets that smelled like fruity chicklets. Like pure luxury, it was.

pool overlooking ocean at Gabayan Riviera

Siquijor is truly a magical island with beautiful waterfalls down every dirt road; we visited but a few: Cambugahay Falls, touristy but gorgeous, and Kawasan Falls and Cave. Our favorite was Locong Falls, a tranquil and heavenly spot where small waterfalls replenish turquoise pools, and giant bamboo loungers on which to lay back and contemplate how lucky you are.

falls into a turquoise pool at Cambugahay

Cantabon Cave was a fabulous, challenging and humbling experience for me. Fabulous because of our kind guides, challenging because of its low ceilings and slippery rocks, and humbling because I discovered I'm no longer the lithe, rock-climbing, cave crawler I used to be. Oh, I felt OLD as I was led by my elbow through the cave by my guide (not much older than I).

man and woman in hardhats in Cantabon Cave

And then devastated when, halfway through, she told Aaron we shouldn't continue, undoubtedly worrying she'd have to carry me back. How sad is that? Where’s the girl who used to do cartwheels a mile to her friends house?

Not only does Siquijor offer beauty you can't imagine, the island has some kick-ass restaurants. Our favourites were the Twenty4 Cafe in the town of Lazi for the best ever fish tacos, and Dolce Amore, a high-end Italian place right in San Juan where we spoiled ourselves with a meal to die for: a crisp bruschetta appy, pumpkin-stuffed rigatoni smothered in bolognese, and for dessert, chocolate and vegan mango gelato. With two delicious glasses of wine, the meal was well worth bustin' our budget. Such extravagance for us frugal backpackers.

In Lazi, we ordered delectable sizzling prawns off the Y-Road Restaurant's large menu, and, later on, ate another great meal at the Balete Bistro where you can look down at the huge 400-year-old Old Enchanted Balete Tree where, according to folklore, sprites, elves and fairies dwell.

Bohol Island

Just as pretty as Siquijor is Bohol. We divided our time, spending 3 days in Panglao, a peninsula on the west side near Taglibaran, Bohol's main city, and 3 days in Anda, a lush, mountainous area in the east.

Panglao

On Panglao, we stayed at the Veraneante Resort, a pretty and quiet place with small, duplex cabins backing lush gardens and a beautiful pool, friendly, helpful staff and a restaurant. Though (again!) we were far from busy centres, a rental scooter got us everywhere we needed to go.

We loved the Bohol Bee Farm. What a wonderful place! Though they no longer have bees, they have so much more. We took the tour, well worth the few pesos it cost, and spent an hour exploring. Built by a local woman with an incredible vision, the place was a gem.

signs along a path of kitchens at Bohol Bee Farm

Peeking into several 'kitchens' where aproned workers were grinding coconut to make ice cream and sweet fudgy candies, we sampled delectable spreads made from coconut milk, the chocolate landing as my favourite, made from cacao beans grown onsite.

Busy bakers churned out muffins of squash and carrot from their large garden to supply their restaurant (which, of course, we visited later), and we watched women weave long palm fronds on a loom into bags, wall hangings, mats. And they rent rooms to boot! What a place!

And what a brilliant woman Vicky Sandidge is! (link to her story)

The Tarsier Sanctuary was lovely, forested, and the most wonderful place to protect these sweet and endangered critters and to learn about the world's second smallest primate (the first being the Mouse Lemur - I knew you were wondering).

Anyone know what a tarsier is? Judging from the size of their eyes, you'd think they were huge, but they are teeny, the size of a squirrel, and not those scary-big Vancouver ones.

Sikatatuna Illusions Station was a surprise we just happened upon as we scooted home. Looking like a gated industrial building, inside are the most weird and wonderful opportunities for 3D shots.

upside-down man and woman at Illusions Station

man behind a woman's head on table at Illusions

Butterflies fluttered and the warm sun beamed down as we walked the quiet trail to Kawasan Falls (where the red marker is on opposite map). Though once maintained by the government, the still impressive viewing deck is falling apart and no services were available. Though the falls were less impressive than they would be in the rainy season, the sunny hike, tranquil setting, cool swim, and the delicious coconut milk some local cliff-jumping teens scooped from their pot for us, made it a wonderful stop.

Anda

Anda is just on the other side of Bohol but another world, gorgeously lush, mountainous, and quiet. We'd booked the Cabagnow Seaside Resort, a long 20 minute-walk from the highway that had us sweating and stopping half-way at a little place selling food. And renting scooters. We got both - gosh, what happened to the girl who used to walk miles with her heavy backpack looking for a hostel? (gone, replaced by a weak, achy, lazy thing). The resort was lovely with lush gardens and a pretty pool, not on the sea, despite its name, but close - just an easy 200m walk from the resort to the quiet white-sand beach.

Exploring the east side of Bohol, we enjoyed the gorgeous scenery. I do like bougainvillea!

Lush mountain behind palms and bougainvillea

And then we reached the Candapdapan Rice Terraces. "I'd be sick if I didn't have rice at every meal" our guide tells us. "I work in the fields and I guide when it's quiet, the grandmother of two tells us. "Many farmers rent and work small parcels of the large property," she says, adding "and each gives the landowner 25% of their crop."

But we weren't done with our long drive. Our scooter butts sighing in relief, we left them (the bikes, not our butts) in a parking lot and hopped in a van and joined the long lines carrying umpteen tourists up to Chocolate Hills, a popular and very busy tourist spot. From a viewpoint up a million stairs, we caught our breath as we gazed over a vast landscape covered with green humps. Where were the chocolate hills? Well, apparently, they're only chocolate-coloured in the rainy season. Weird.

And I can't forget the food...Bohol surprised us with some fabulous meals: fantastic Thai food at Wonderland in Panglao, and a delicious jalapeno sourdough grilled sandwich, kiwi shake and killer view at the Overgrown Café & Bar near Taglibaran.

Closer to Anda, we found The Old Plantation Restaurant and Wine Bar at the Island View Beachfront Resort; though it's quite the bumpy ride to get there, it was wonderful to sit in the warm night air under the stars, sip at our cocktails and gaze out over a quiet, dark ocean. And the Anda Food Park - who'da thunk I'd find the best-ever Filipino dish in a food court? Yum, that was kinilaw, the Filipino version of ceviche with oh-so-fresh tuna tossed in a ginger, garlic, basil salsa. I mmm'd and slurped this tasty dish right down and wished so much I'd found it earlier.

Malapascua Island

Malapascua Island is just north of Cebu Island. It was our last destination before we flew back to Canada and I wished we'd left more time for it. It was a bit sketchy getting there. Braving the wild sea thrashing below us, we inched over a thick board held fast (NOT!) by the crew of the boat that would take us from the Maya Ferry terminal across that wild sea to the south end of Malapascua.

Of course, Aaron had booked us a hotel on the north end. No problem though; local boys make a nice living carrying tourists around the island on their motorbikes. And so, in no time, we were at the best place we stayed at on our entire trip – Avila's Horizon Dive Resort with the prettiest white sand beach on the island, loungers and beanbag chairs to relax in, fantastic food, and wonderful staff throughout.

I wasted no time booking a day of diving. Thresher sharks are the draw here and I thrilled as I stared through my mask at the huge, fat, silvery, sleek, long-tailed predators, shivering a little when they turned their dark, bottomless eyes at me. Sadly, I have to use the photo from Malapasua-diving.com (tip: don't buy memory cards at a market).

When we weren't eating the resort's delicious food, or lazing on loungers in the sun, we explored the island, walking along the bumpy sand trail to the south end, winding past aquamarine bays and small neighbourhoods where families gathered in front of bamboo shacks, washing laundry or their little ones with a bucket of water. Kids played in the dirt with sticks and bottles under palm trees, and roosters, pigs, chickens and dogs milled about, noses to the ground.

How hard it was to leave this tiny, off-the-beaten-path island!

COSTS: Conversions in Canadian dollars (approximate)

Negros to Apo: 500p ea ($12) on a private boat (300p or $7) if you want to wait for the regularly scheduled ones)
Apo dives - two dives for 2700p ($65, yes, $65!).
Hotels - 1000p ($25) for windowless box, 2500p ($60) for anything decent, 3000-5500 ($80-$130) for decadence
Siquijor Waterfalls - 20p ($0.50)
Decadent dinner at Dolce Amor: 2000p ($50)
Siquijor to Tagbilarin, Bohol: two hours and 800p ($20) away on the OceanJet ferry.
Bohol Bee Farm - free but the tour is 30p ($0.80)
Tarsier Sanctuary - 80p ($2)
Sikatatuna Illusions Station - 150p ($4)
Taglibaran to Anda - 130p ($3) via bus from Dao Terminal
Candapdapan Rice Terraces - 50p ($2)
Chocolate Hills - 150p ($4)
Maya Ferry Terminal, Cebu to Malapascua - 320p ($8) - including environmental fee
Malapascua dives - three dives for 6200p ($150)

OUR NEXT TIME WISHES:

Stay at The Island View Beachfront Hotel which was stunning, right on the beach, with gorgeous gardens and great food.
Stay on Malapascua longer.

Extra Bits 'Cause It's my last Philippine post:

TIPS:

Do not pay for an e-visa – they’re free.
Work in an extra day for every island move into your itinerary.
Airport cab should be 350p; confirm price or ensure it's metred b4 entering.
Cheap SIM cards and recharges at 7-11 stores.
BMI bank allows 20000p withdrawal (all others max at 10000p) with 250p fee
Senior rates for over 60s in museums and many ferries
Museums not open on Mondays
Rent a scooter everywhere once you’re out of big cities
Don’t let hotels book your tours or transportation - convenient but very expensive.

WHAT’S FILIPINO FOOD LIKE? HONESTLY.

Oh, I wish I could say I loved Filipino food, but food is my favourite part of travelling. Usually. Maybe it was because I’d get sweet when I expected savory, or chunks of fat when I expected meat, or maybe it was the breakfasts that got to me: meat with rice and egg, various choices but all called something-silog; there was HOTsilog (a weiner with rice and egg), TOCsilog (sweet pork with rice and egg), and my personal favourite, SPAMsilog (you can guess) - that was a tough one to forget.

Vegetables are scarce and meat is the king. Looping intestines on a stick and scary stuff like sea urchins and balut, a duck fetus boiled in its own egg were local faves, but NOT FOR ME. Eek.

You might luck out if you get the right side of a boneless bangan (a fried whitefish); Aaron was lucky, I wasn't (tip: if you see jelly in your bangan, it's not meat, stay far away!)

Local favorites are hilarious and not to be missed. Like Jolibee, the ubiquitous fast-food joint. We got the full meal deal: spaghetti and weiners, rice, fries, a beef burger topped with mushrooms and gravy and a crispy drumstick. Did I say, meat is king here. And you've got to try halo-halo, a cool and sweet mix of jelly chunks, beans (yes, beans), cereal, and purple cream. How did they ever think of such a combination?

But...there are some gems. Like mango shakes, the fried chicken and grilled meat satays. Their dimsum and tasty siobiao (a white puff ball with a bit of meat filling) are yummy, and we loved their very delicious limpiang gulay (spring rolls), pancit guisado (noodles, veg & meat), and as I said before, their kinilaw (ceviche).